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^^BY: 



Actual Measurement. 



PUBLISHED BY 



PHILADELPHIA, PA.: 
Wolf Bros., Economy Print. 3d & Market Sts. 

I 87S. v, V ~ 

_____ ^# ^ 






Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1878, by 

H. HERZ, POTTSVILLE, PA. 

In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 



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cJnimdmHon. 



In offering this system to the public, my object is to introduce to 
the notice of the trade generally a new and — as I claim — a more per- 
fect method of cutting gentlemen's garments by actual measurement 
than any that have as yet claimed their attention. Actual experience 
has constantly demonstrated that the least complicated the rule, the 
more satisfactory will it work. In making the rule which I now offer 
to the public I have had this idea constantly before me, and I have 
followed its precepts so faithfully that, as a practical trial will demon- 
strate, the points in cutting are more easily obtained, and in less time, 
than by any other system that has ever been introduced. I claim for 
my system that any one who faithfully follows the printed directions 
in regard to taking measures, contained in this book, a perfect fitting 
garment cannot fail to be the result. 

The balance angle, used for drafting and balancing, is my own 
invention, and was produced after many years of severe thought and 
after I had fully tested the good points of all the plausible inventions. 
With all my experience as a practical cutter of many years' standing, 
I can truthfully say I never saw or heard of a system by which the 
principal points on a coat could be obtained with such unfailing 
accuracy. 

In cutting pantaloons and vest by my system, which is done by 
actual measurements, I use the same scale to draft by, and con- 
sequently it is impossible to make a misfit, providing measures have been 
taken correctly. It will be seen at a glance that my system is not in 
the least complicated, and as I use but a single scale, misfits are 
entirely impossible, providing the printed directions are followed. 

I have not the least doubt that if the system which I now offer to 
the public is accorded a fair trial, it will come into general use among 
members of my profession, to the exclusion of all others. 



9)iwdbQfi& fw Jfleidmin$. 



The coat of the person to be measured is first removed, after which 
the first joint of the neck is found and its position marked with a 
piece of chalk. The middle of the back and the natural waist are 
next marked, when the fashionable and entire length of the coat are 
obtained. 

THE COAT. 

Measurement No. i is commenced by placing one end of the tape, 
at the marked neck joint, holding it in position with the two first 
fingers of the left hand. The tape is then carefully drawn over the 
shoulder and under the arm-pit with the right hand to the place of 
beginning. Care should be exercised to make correct measurement. 

No. 2. Still hold one end of the tape at neck joint, and carry 
it under the arm-pit to the middle of the back. 

No. 3. The tape is now placed at a point midway between the first 
neck joint and the middle of the back; follow the direction of the 
first measure over the shoulder and under the arm-pit to the place of 
beginning. 

No. 4. Place one end of the tape at the neck joint and measure to 
natural waist, and to fashionable length of waist, and from thence to 
the length desired. 

No. 5. Next measure from centre of back to elbow, without taking 
notice of the width of back, to full length of sleeve. 

Breast measure. Place tape immediately under arm-pits and make 
measurement. 

To make hip measurement, the tape is placed as near as possible 
the position occupied by the skirt seam of the coat. 

The above are all the measures necessary to draft a perfect fitting 
coat. 



Sack coats are measured the same as frocks, with exception that no 
fashionable length of waist need to be taken. 

Overcoats are measured over the coat, and have the coat buttoned. 

THE VEST. 

Place tape at neck joint, and measure length according to fashion 
or fancy of the person being measured, then down the full length; 
then measure the length of side to hips. In measuring for a full suit 
this is all that is necessary, except coat measure No. i, and breast and 
waist being taken in conjunction. 

PANTALOONS. 

To take the measure for the pantaloons place the tape at hip joint, 
down to knee, then to bottom ; then inside seam ; to obtain waist 
measure place the tape around the waist above the hips ; then the most 
prominent part around the seat, then knee and bottom. 



FOR DRAFTING FROCK COAT. 



The following will serve as a measure for practicing to draft a frock 
coat, it making a proportionate shape : 



ist measurement, 



2d 


do. 


Balance 


do. 


4th 


do. 


Breast 


do. 


Hip 


do. 



Length to elbow, 

Full length of sleeve, 30 



2 5> 
2 3 

25 

36 

33 
19 



inches, 
do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 



Mark base line A ; go down on A to B, scale No. 8, first measure, 
turn the scale from you and go down to C, scale No. 2 ; if your mea- 
sure is more than 24, apply next scale, which is No. 3, and this is 



done in all cases where the measure exceeds 24; the measure used for 
this scale is still the first measure; go down to C, scale No. 2, first 
measure; go down to D, natural waist measure, which is 16 inches 
from there to fashionable length of waist, which is 18^ inches; 
square lines at points A, B, C, D, and at fashionable length of waist ; 
from A to E is 3 inches ; square up 1 inch ; go up on A ^ inch and 
draw line to E ; apply the coat angle at point B ; from B to F is scale 
No. 5, fourth measure ; from F to G is 1^ inches; square down on G 
2 inches and mark the point for side body ; from D to T is 2^ inches ; 
curve back as represented ; from C to H is scale No. 7, second mea- 
sure ; from H to L is scale No. 2, first measure; from T to U is 2*^ 
inches : shape side body as represented by breaking off 3^ inch on 
line C ; cut out the back and apply the same on curve of side body, 
to line C, and mark from C to M one-half of breast measure, which is 
18 inches; from M to N is 2^ inches: square line up on L ; from O 
to P is scale No. 5, fourth measure; place point B on P the angle rest- 
ing on line from P to L, and mark shoulder seam as represented ; shape 
the arm hole ; draw line from X to L ; from X to K is 2 inches ; curve 
the neck ; make a sweep from K by I to V ; measure the width of back 
at fashionable length of waist, place the tape on point U and measure 
to sweep half of hip measure, which is i6j4 inches, and mark point V; 
from V to W is 2}4 inches; draw line from W to N and shape the 
front. 

EXPLANATION OF BALANCE MEASURE. 

Place the tape at A ; and run to line H until you have one-half of 
the first measure, keep tape at that point and continue to point D 
(natural waist.) Whatever the measure exceeds the balance measure 
take backwards from point P ; but should the measure be less than to 
point D go forward from point P and draw line in either case to point L. 

FOR DRAFTING SLEEVES. 

Mark line A ; go down on A to B, which is 1^ inches; from A to 
C is scale No. 2, first measure ; measure the width of the back, deduct 
the seams from it, and place the measure on point B ; go down to D, 
length to elbow, which is 19 inches — from there to E, full length of 
sleeves; which is 30 inches ; square lines on points A, B, C and D ; 
from A to G is scale No. 5, — the measure used is the width of arm 
hole ; from G to N is the same distance ; square lines down on points 
G and N ; from B to I is 1^ inches ; make a sweep from A by E to 
X ; draw line from E to X, and shape the sleeve as represented. 

The sack or overcoat is drafted the same as the frock, with the fol- 
lowing exceptions: 



From D to Q is ^ inch less than from B to F ; draw a line from F 
through Q ; the width of back at bottom is the same as from D to Q ; 
draw a line from D to E ; from Q to R is i ^ inches ; shape from J to 
R as represented ; make a sweep fron V by length of side seam to 
length of forepart ; from S to T is 3^ inches. 



FOR DRAFTING VEST. 



Mark line A 5 go down y 2 . inch for top of back; from A to B is 
scale No. 4, first measure, 2 bars less ; from top of back to C is scale 
No. 5, first measure; apply vest angle on C ; from C to D is scale No. 
2, first measure ; measure the natural waist from A, add 2 l / 2 inches 
and mark point E ; square lines from points A, B, D and E ; from A 
to F is scale No. 4, first measure, less 2 bars ; from B to G is scale No. 
5, first measure, 2 bars added; draw line from F through G, shape 
arm hole as represented ; from D to H is scale No 6, of breast mea- 
sure — add 1 y% inches ; from I to K is scale No. 4, first measure, 3 
bars added; from D to L is one-half of breast measure; from L to M 
x s 2^ inches ; square line up from K ; from K to N is scale No. 2, 
first measure ; from N to O is scale No. 5, third measure ; from O 
to P is y 2 inch ; place point C on P, the angle resting on the line at 
point N and mark shoulder seam as represented in the diagram ; from 
base line to Q is scale No. 6, breast measure ; from Q to R is j4 inch ; 
from Q to E is scale No. 6, of waist measure ; from R to S is 1 inch; 
curve from Q to S, as represented ; from S to T is scale No. 6 waist 
measure — add }4 inch, draw line from M to U, shape as represented ; 
measure the full length for the front and side, and draw lines as repre- 
sented ; draw curved line from Q to S ; place rule on curve at S, giv- 
ing it the same inclination, and draw line from S to T. 



FOR DRAFTING PANTALOONS. 

FRONT PART. 

The following will serve as a measure for drafting pantaloons : 



Waist, . . 


. 32 inches. 


Hip, . . . 


36 do. 


Knee, 


. 20 do. 


Bottom, 


i8*4 do. 


Outside length, 


41 do. 


In seam, 


31 do. 



The near edge of cloth ; go down to full length of pants, which is 
41 inches; mark your inside seam, which is 31 inches; go out from 
near edge scale No. 2, hip measure, and mark point B ; go out at bot- 
tom scale No. 2, width of bottom to N ; from N to O is 1 inch ; take 
half the width from near edge of cloth to O and mark point D ; draw 
line from D through B ; square line across both ways from balance 
line at point D— from there measure the actual length of inside seam, 
which is 31 inches, marked B; go up full length, which is 41 inches, 
marked A; go down from A the length to knee, which is 22^ inches, 
marked C ; square lines both ways on points A, B and C ; from B to 
G is scale No. 2, hip measure; from G to F is scale No. x, hip mea- 
sure ; square line up on F and mark point H ; curve from H to G as 
represented ; from H to I is scale No. 6, waist measure ; from C to L 
is scale No. 5, knee measure; from C to K is scale No. 5, knee mea- 
sure, less 4 bars ; draw all the outlines for front part. 

HIND PART. 

Extend all lines across both ways ; extend base line to X ; from E 
to Y is scale No. 1, hip measure ; from G to R is 1^ inches; from L 
to S is 1*^ inches; from D to T is scale No. 2, bottom measure ; from 
D to V is the same measure ; measure' the width of forepart at knee 
and mark point W, according to taste or fashion ; from A to P is scale 
No. 5, of waist measure — add y 2 inch*; mark the width of hind part 
on line from I to H, according to waist measure ; from A to X is scale 
No. 1, hip measure ; draw line from P to X ; draw line from P to W, 
from there to V ; apply on line Y your hip measure and add 2 inches, 
for instance, if the hip measure is 18 inches, mark 20 inches, and 
draw all the outside lines of hind part. 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




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